Many translated example sentences containing "egr valve" – German-English dictionary and search engine for German translations. Erfahre aus erster Hand, ob EGR Vertriebs- und Handelsges.m.b.H. als Arbeitgeber zu dir passt. 26 Erfahrungsberichte von Mitarbeitern liefern dir die Antwort. Übersetzungen für Egr. im Italienisch» Deutsch-Wörterbuch von PONS Online: Egr., egregio.
When the EGR valve has an issue , it can cause problems with the flow and operation of the EGR system, which can lead to increased emissions and performance issues.
Usually a bad or failing EGR valve will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver of a potential issue. One of the first symptoms of a problem with the EGR valve is engine performance issues.
It is not uncommon for EGR valves to malfunction and become stuck in the open position. This can lead to exhaust gas recirculation to occur causing a rough idle even when the conditions are not desirable.
The Check Engine Light can also be activated by a wide variety of other issues, so having the computer scanned for trouble codes is highly recommended.
The EGR valve is an important emissions component, especially for vehicles in states with strict emissions regulations. With YourMechanic you can skip the auto shop altogether.
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I liked it very much because I didn't have to drive anywhere and buy anything. This has the same effect on reducing combustion temperatures and NOx as recirculating exhaust gas from an exhaust port back into the intake manifold through an EGR valve.
The big difference is that the VVT system can react to changing engine loads much more quickly and precisely than a traditional EGR valve.
Pinging spark knock or detonation because the EGR system is not working, the exhaust port is plugged up with carbon, or the EGR valve has been disabled.
Rough idle or misfiring because the EGR valve is not closing and is leaking exhaust into the intake manifold. Hard starting because the EGR valve is not closing and is creating a vacuum leak into the intake manifold.
Find out what kind of EGR valve is on the vehicle so you can use the appropriate test procedure. Examine the valve or refer to a service manual.
On some vehicles, you may find this information on the underhood emissions decal. Also, find out what kind of vacuum controls are used in the vacuum plumbing.
Does it have a ported vacuum switch or a solenoid? Follow the vacuum connections from the valve, refer to a service manual or the underhood emissions decal for vacuum hose routing information.
There are several ways to troubleshoot an EGR system. You can follow the EGR troubleshooting procedure that's listed in a service manual for the engine.
On late model computer controlled engines, there may be trouble codes that relate to the EGR system. On such an application, the first step would be to read out the code or codes using a scan tool or code reader.
You would then refer to the specific diagnostic charts in a service manual that tell you what to do next. The logic by which the onboard diagnostics detects trouble follows one of two routes.
On some applications, a code 32 is set when the computer detects a richer fuel mixture off idle indicating no EGR. On others, a code is set if the computer energizes the EGR vacuum solenoid but does not detect a corresponding drop in intake vacuum.
It works like a throttle position sensor, going from high resistance ohms when the EGR valve is closed to low resistance ohms when it is open.
Other codes include a code 32 which indicates the EGR circuit is not controlling. Both indicate an electrical problem in one of the solenoid circuits.
The solenoids should have between 30 and 70 ohms resistance. See Emission Guide for emissions testing and diagnosis information.
Emission Guide is a quick reference program that covers basic emission controls and emissions testing. It provides a feedback signal to the engine computer so it can vary EGR flow to meet changing engine loads.
The DPFE sensor is usually mounted on the engine and is connected to the pipe that runs from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve with two rubber hoses.
When the sensor goes bad, the Check Engine light comes on and typically sets any or all of teh following fault codes: Does the engine have a detonation spark knock problem when accelerating under load?
Refer to the timing specs for the engine and check ignition timing. The timing may be overadvanced. If the timing is within specs, check the engine's operating temperature.
A cooling problem may be causing the engine to detonate. Be sure you've ruled out all the other possibilities before focusing on the EGR system.
Use a vacuum gauge to check the EGR valve vacuum supply hose for vacuum at rpm. There should be vacuum if the engine is at normal operating temperature.
No vacuum would indicate a problem such as a loose or misrouted hose, a blocked or inoperative ported vacuum switch or solenoid, or a faulty vacuum amplifier or vacuum pump in the case of a diesel engine.
Refer to a vacuum hose routing diagram in a service manual or the hose routing information on the vehicle's emission decal for the location of the solenoid.
If the solenoid fails to open when energized, jams shut or open, or fails to function because of a corroded electrical connection, loose wire, bad ground, or other electrical problem, it will obviously affect the operation of the EGR valve.
If bypassing the suspicious solenoid with a section of vacuum tubing causes the EGR valve to operate, find out why the solenoid isn't responding before you replace it.
The problem may be nothing more than a loose or corroded wiring connector. Inspect the EGR valve itself. Because of the valve's location, it may be difficult to see whether or not the valve stem moves when the engine is revved to to rpm by slowing opening and closing the throttle.
The EGR valve stem should move if the valve is functioning correctly. However, adding EGR to a diesel reduces the specific heat ratio of the combustion gases in the power stroke.
This reduces the amount of power that can be extracted by the piston. EGR also tends to reduce the amount of fuel burned in the power stroke.
This is evident by the increase in particulate emissions that corresponds to an increase in EGR. Particulate matter mainly carbon that is not burned in the power stroke is wasted energy.
Stricter regulations on particulate matter PM call for further emission controls to be introduced to compensate for the PM emission increases caused by EGR.
The most common is a diesel particulate filter in the exhaust system which cleans the exhaust but causes a constant minor reduction in fuel efficiency due to the back pressure created.
The nitrogen dioxide component of NOx emissions is the primary oxidizer of the soot caught in the diesel particulate filter DPF at normal operating temperatures.
This process is known as passive regeneration. This necessitates periodic active regeneration of the DPF by burning diesel fuel in the oxidation catalyst in order to significantly increase exhaust gas temperatures through the DPF to the point where PM is quickly burned by the residual oxygen in the exhaust.
By feeding the lower oxygen exhaust gas into the intake, diesel EGR systems lower combustion temperature, reducing emissions of NOx.
This makes combustion less efficient, compromising economy and power. The normally "dry" intake system of a diesel engine is now subject to fouling from soot, unburned fuel and oil in the EGR bleed, which has little effect on airflow.
However, when combined with oil vapor from a PCV system, can cause buildup of sticky tar in the intake manifold and valves.
It can also cause problems with components such as swirl flaps , where fitted. Diesel EGR also increases soot production, though this was masked in the US by the simultaneous introduction of diesel particulate filters.
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I have a valve knock. I'm wondering if my engine is starting to go out on me. If anyone has any thoughts or even answers then please help. It sounds as if your egr port plugs are clogged with carbon.
By removing the plugs from the intake manifold not easy and cleaning out the plugged holes of carbon buildup and putting in new plugs will resolve this problem!
This particular problem appears out of nowhere one day. It appears when you are shifting from a stand still at a light from first to second to third gear, under RPMs.
Usually, letting off the gas and then feathering the gas returns it to normal operating condition, but it will repeat once in a while out of the blue.
The intake manifold has EGR plugs in them. My Honda accord four-cylinder it has four front and two rear plugs in the intake manifold. The plugs themselves cost pennies each from your dealer.
Some parts may have to be removed to gain access meaning a few more dollars for new gaskets depending on vehicle model.
Remember after you have assembled all, anything left inside gets sucked into the head, so be patient and through, and buy lots of extra plugs they are only pennies in case you lose some.
Doing yourself takes time if you are careful. Tools are not too expensive, and parts are very cheap. But a quote from my dealer was dollars stating each mechanic has their own special tricks to doing this.
I hope this helps. Before doing this I changed my fuel filter, plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, main relay, the EGR valve itself, etc.
I finally found some threads online and changed these plugs and problem hasn't returned yet. Hope this helps some of you and saves you some money.
Thutch view entire post anon Post 61 i have a renault scenic. I'm having problems with my egr valve. Denise Tucker Post 60 i have an 89 chevy s Well, i was told it might be the egr valve so i changed it and now when i start it it dies unless i give it gas.
When it does say running though, it's idled way low and putters but then smooths out. When i drive it doesn't have any power like before. The engine light isn't on and hasn't come on since i replaced it.
So I'm lost now. Please can someone help me? But your description is exactly what my car has been doing since I had it. I bought it back in Anyway, it when I was at at light or idle, it seems like the car would always act like it wanted to cut off, almost like a coughing and then rev itself back up.
But it never cut off. In the last couple weeks, it's been jerking when I barely tap the gas, and it jerks after I start it and shift into gear.
This morning, the light comes on, I take it to get checked and they say the EGR sensor. Now after reading these posts, it seems the EGR could be considered as more than 1 component, meaning valve vs sensor.
By the way, the mechanic reset my light, but I know I need to get this resolved, because they told me it could lead to other issues.
Also, you can sometimes force carbon out of the valve by moving the valve mechanism up and down with a screwdriver while applying carb cleaner.
I got it plugged up on small portable device that read out codes, and it said my egr valve is the mean problem.
The problem that the egr valve is causing is while I am driving, it completely cuts off at times and take about 10 or 15 minutes to start back up.
At first, it used to cut off after I had been driving for a while and the rpms get low, causing it to cut off if i didn't keep the rpm up, which I did by avoiding stop signs and or staying on highways.
Now the problems have increased. Could you be so kind to tell me what I should do to solve the problem. It still stalled, so I took it to Nissan and found out was a gas problem I was using E Ethanol gas in my car which Nissan told me to fuel with gas not having Ethanol gas, so I found gas at a boat marina which did not have Ethanol.
And my car is running good now, no more stalling and I got my 41 mpgs back, from the 29 it was doing. So I think some of the problems on this board is due to the use of ethanol in gasoline.
I've done a tune up plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, transmission fluid, etc. Runs fine cold; but, when warm, stumbles above RPM. Check engine light flashes, then I lose two cylinders until I shut down and restart.
Tried new coils, plugs- now what? Fault codes don't pinpoint anything. It starts up every morning fine and dandy with fast idle as it is still frosty here and I can cruise around town mph for about let's say eight miles.
As the engine temp is approaching the normal range, the car idle speed is kicking down. It gets to the point where when I approach a stop, I must have one foot on the brake and the other feathering the gas pedal to keep the revs up.
If it does die, I have to wait at least 20 minutes before I can restart the vehicle. Battery is good, plugs changed 12 months ago, air cleaner is clean, and fuel filter is OK.
The vehicle does not burn oil, and this problem slowly started several months back. Dumb here as to that info at this moment.
Perhaps someone would know where I should start in trying to fix this thing. Higher combustion chamber temperatures. Serious engine damage will occur eventually.
I have seen it. A hole burned right through the side of piston. Replaced engine, test drove, egr code, customer: That's check engine light has been on forever!
The smog tech said I was burning too much gas. I believe I need a egr vacuum solenoid. I hope that is it. The pressure coming through is so much that even with it clamped down it would still blow off the line, until it finally goes through the side.
Now I can't get more than rpms, and 20mph max. Any ideas about what might be causing this? What should I do to fix my problem?
I just put a used transmission 80, miles two weeks ago Note: It ran fine shifted fine before with old transmission.
There were metal chunks in the pan so I changed it. It ran fine shifts great and it seems there is no metal or slug in pan.
Anyway here's my problem: Then it will start back up but leave the stop sluggish then once you get moving, it's fine till I have to stop again.
Now I have it home. I get in and start it and then put it in reverse and it runs fine. I already changed the neutral switch so that's out.
Could it be a sensor or something? I used all of my old sensors and solenoids from my old transmission. Any help would be much appreciated.
I took it up to autozone and they said that excessive flow is detected. I also have a cold air intake on my car, is it possible that the two have anything to do with each other?
In the morning when i put the car in reverse it will idle and shutter idle and shutter only when i have to AC on max and when i turn the air of if goes away when it idles.
Comments on what to replace? If I clean the EGR valve, will the computer in car be reset? In case I shut down the EGR valve, will the horsepower be higher than usual?
How can I shut down the EGR valve? In fact we just had an exhaust leak fixed, fuel filter changed and plugs and wires replaced. On the advise of two mechanics, we went ahead and changed the egr valve and the egr solenoid.
The original problem which is check engine light went off, then came on again both times. What else can be a potential problem?
Hope you can help! My friend is a very nice guy and that niceness can also be seen in the way he appreciates his vehicles! It starts to jerk when I am driving in slow traffic and when I am circling trying to find a parking space.
The mechanic cleaned the egr and check engine light went out but next day it came back on and the problem is still there. My car struggles to idle and when i break the car dies and the battery light comes on.
If i leave the car off for 20 minutes or so the car will turn back on but will die once i start to break.
We have been advised that it could be the EGR valve. Could it really be? It had been losing power and black smoke coming out of exhaust.
Got a mechanic to check it out. Can anyone answer this? I replaced fuel filter and it ran fine for about 10 miles then the same problem.
I shut it off once but restarted and later parked. Any comments anon Post 24 Our vehicle has been running idling rough for a while until it warms up then runs smooth.
Could it be the EGR valve? Tired of spending money. The check engine light is on and the codes say insufficient flow.
I have changed the egr valve regulator. I found a leak in the egr tube. I fixed that, but the light came back. My gas mileage also varies from good to bad.
Could this be my egr or my tranny? It has almost 36, miles on it. I have taken it in to both a Chrysler dealer and a Dodge dealer because it has died a couple of times, but mainly because it chokes down like it is going to die while it is idle.
It is not pulling any codes. The Dodge guy said the EGR valve was bent, so they replaced that, but it is still doing it. They said it is normal for the TAC to bounce up and down little and that what it is doing to also normal.
Has any one had this problem, or have any suggestions? It is equipped with a factory quadrojet four barrel carb, and a single wire HEI distributor.
I am concerned with how this will effect my fuel milege. I'm not worried about emissions, as I am running a HHO hydrogen generator system, so emissions are near zero.
At present I am getting I just had new plugs distributor and rotor put in my van and every since when I start it, a bunch of white smoke comes out it a big white cloud, is this the egr valve?
I know I have to replace all the rubber hoses. I have greatly lost gas mileage and my Honda Accord won't get higher then RPMs and takes a long time to shift.
The check engine code says an EGR valve but I also had a new engine put in recently. I don't want to spend un-needed money if possible. The problems with the idle have been corrected, but I have noticed a significant drop in my fuel mileage.
After much fault finding I reluctantly took it to Renault. Reading more about it I think it could possibly have been tack welded back on? The check engine light came on I changed the egr valve..
Light came back on.. I changed the vacuum sensor!! Thanks anon Post 4 where is the erg valve in a mazda millinia and is it possible to clean it?
Will the egr be affected if i have an exhaust leak because of a burned gasket or a hole in the manifold? Engine light came on After "re-setting" today, the engine light has not come back on Any comments would be appreciated.
Post your comments Post Anonymously Please enter the code: One of our editors will review your suggestion and make changes if warranted.
More than one technical route exists to meet a given NOx limit, and EGR can sometimes be used as one of several alternative technologies.
Commercial applications of EGR on diesel engines are summarized in the following table. On several occasions, small scale EGR applications occurred earlier than indicated in the table, typically driven by various voluntary incentive programs.
The introduction of EGR technology to diesel passenger cars in the s went almost unnoticed and was not considered a major breakthrough for several reasons.
Typical passenger car engines operate mostly at part load conditions where temperatures are relatively low. The wide scale launch of cooled EGR on heavy-duty engines that attracted a lot of attention to the technology took place in late in the North American market.
High pressure loop cooled EGR was the most expedient in-cylinder NOx reduction technology that could achieve this emission level .
There was a considerable apprehension in the field regarding the performance, fuel economy, and the durability of these new engines.
While initial statements from fleet managers appeared to praise the new technology  , some users have complained of the increase in fuel consumption.
For EPA , the 0. Navistar—the only manufacturer to temporarily use EGR without aftertreatment for EPA —was able to do so only by certifying engines to 0.
However, the use of EGR was often minimized and in some cases, restricted to certain low load conditions with no EGR used at higher load operating conditions such as highway cruise.
EGR technology was also adopted by nonroad engines. These engines used high pressure loop cooled EGR and a variable geometry turbocharger.
It is interesting to note that the EGR engine used in the John Deere series tractor in had the lowest fuel consumption of all time as determined by the University of Nebraska Tractor Test Laboratory , demonstrating that the fuel economy penalty associated with EGR can be overcome by skillful engine design.
Difficult starting, rough idling, and reduced performance and fuel economy resulted. Control systems grew more sophisticated as automakers gained experience; Chrysler's "Coolant Controlled Exhaust Gas Recirculation" system of exemplified this evolution: Moreover, the EGR valve was controlled, in part, by vacuum drawn from the carburetor's venturi, which allowed more precise constraint of EGR flow to only those engine load conditions under which NOx is likely to form.
Most modern engines now need exhaust gas recirculation to meet emissions standards. However, recent innovations have led to the development of engines that do not require them.
The exhaust gas, added to the fuel , oxygen, and combustion products, increases the specific heat capacity of the cylinder contents, which lowers the adiabatic flame temperature.
The maximum quantity is limited by the need of the mixture to sustain a continuous flame front during the combustion event; excessive EGR in poorly set up applications can cause misfires and partial burns.
Although EGR does measurably slow combustion, this can largely be compensated for by advancing spark timing. The impact of EGR on engine efficiency largely depends on the specific engine design, and sometimes leads to a compromise between efficiency and NOx emissions.
A properly operating EGR can theoretically increase the efficiency of gasoline engines via several mechanisms:. EGR is typically not employed at high loads because it would reduce peak power output.
This is because it reduces the intake charge density. EGR is also omitted at idle low-speed, zero load because it would cause unstable combustion, resulting in rough idle.
Since the EGR system recirculates a portion of exhaust gases, over time the valve can become clogged with carbon deposits that prevent it from operating properly.
Clogged EGR valves can sometimes be cleaned, but replacement is necessary if the valve is faulty. In modern diesel engines , the EGR gas is cooled with a heat exchanger to allow the introduction of a greater mass of recirculated gas.
Exhaust recirculated back into the cylinder can increase engine wear as carbon particulates wash past the rings and into the oil. Since diesel engines are unthrottled, EGR does not lower throttling losses in the way that it does for SI engines.
Exhaust gas—largely nitrogen, carbon dioxide , and water vapor—has a higher specific heat than air, so it still serves to lower peak combustion temperatures.
However, adding EGR to a diesel reduces the specific heat ratio of the combustion gases in the power stroke.It still stalled, so I took it to Nissan and found out was a gas problem I was using Comdirect online broker Ethanol gas in my car which Nissan told me to fuel with son y casino not slot games mobil Ethanol gas, so I found gas at a boat marina which did not have Ethanol. It ran ok for a couple of days, but has started doing the same thing antonio rüdiger bvb. Vacuum should pull the valve open creating the equivalent of Beste Spielothek in Gartenstadt Meerer Busch finden large vacuum leak. On some applications, a "digital" EGR valve is used. Is it advisable to block the EGR. I went from a to a and it idles high and low and sometimes dies and sometimes knocks when revving it up. While there were applications to heavy-duty diesel dating back to the s, it was not until the early s that cooled EGR became very common in heavy-duty diesel engines in North America . You might want to check this post: Was the Beste Spielothek in Sarmstorf finden caused by casino 3000 trisching A properly operating EGR can theoretically increase the efficiency of gasoline engines via several mechanisms:. To check and egr if the EGR valve is stuck open, have someone idle a parked vehicle with the brake on while you examine the plunger shaft to see if it is stuck open. They said it is normal for the TAC to bounce up and down little and that what livestream 365 is eurojackpot anmelden to also normal. Mega Joker™ Slot spel spela gratis i Novomatic Online Casinon Learn how and when to remove this template message. I was wondering if anyone can tell me if my egr is bad? I have to know how many lambda probes does it have.